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South Bend IN 46615
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Site Updated
08/29/08 at 15:00
(GMT-04:00)

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Title - Tucked Yoke Top

Image - Tucked Yoke Top

Materials:

" 1 1/8 yard good quality knit interlock
       (For medium size)
" Basic Top Pattern with drop sleeve
" Cording to make piping
" 2.0 and 4.0 Double needles
" Water Soluble Marker
" Pintuck Foot, 3 Groove
" Piping Foot
" Edge Stitch Foot (if you have one)

I got this idea from something I saw by the White Sewing Machine Company.

Procedure:

  1. Cut from knit fabric: one piece 17" x 60" (width of fabric) to be tucked, and one strip 1" x 60" for piping. Set the rest aside for now.
  2. Mark the 17" piece with vertical lines 2" apart. I used a C-Thru' Ruler (2" wide) to do this easily. Insert the 2.0 double needle, put on the pintuck foot, and sew a tuck on each of the lines.
  3. Cut a strip 2½" x 60" from the tucked fabric for the neck and sleeve bands.
  4. Lay the pattern on the large piece of tucked fabric and cut a back and front yoke. (Center the pattern so the tuck follows the center back and center front lines.) Leave it the full 14-14½" long for now.
  5. Sew the shoulder seams, matching the tucks of the front and back. (I stabilize this seam with ¼" seam tape.)
  6. Now try it on, to be sure that it fits over your head and the neckline is where you'll want it after another inch is added with the band. Also decide where you want the end of the yoke (and the piping) to be. Make adjustments to the neckline if you wish, and cut the extra off the yoke. (If you're making this for someone else and she can't try it on, the suggestion is to have the yoke end ¾" below the armhole.)
  7. From the rest of the knit fabric that you set aside earlier, cut two rectangles the same width as the pattern front and back.
  8. Fold the 1" strip around the cording and sandwich it between the bottom portion and the yoke and sew, using the piping foot.
  9. Sew the side seams. If you're going to wear the top tucked in, you don't need to do anything to the bottom edge. If not, decide the length and finish it with a blind hem or double needle hem.
  10. Measure the armhole opening and cut each band ¾" shorter than the opening. Sew it to the armhole as you would ribbing, quartering and matching quarter marks.
  11. Cut a band strip a few inches shorter than the neck opening. Baste the seam to sew it in a circle, quarter and insert the neck band with a basting stitch. Try it on to be sure it fits and lays where you want it. Then do your permanent stitching.
  12. Put in the 4.0 double needle, press the bands toward the garment, lengthen your stitch to 3.5 mm, and topstitch the seam allowances in place. If you have an edge stitching foot, you can use it to help make your top stitching equal on both sides of the seam.

Enjoy!


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